With his
Windy City roots, Chef Garces is baking up an incredibly close rendition of the
Chicago legend at Garces Trading Co. I offer the following words of advice: This will not be a quick meal. This will not be a light meal. You will
not be able to finish the whole thing - unless you've got several hungry
friends. The pizza will take about an
hour to cook, so bring plenty of wine to keep your whistle wet. In the
meantime, there are plenty of amazing appetizers to keep you busy.
When you
first walk in, you're greeted by the meat counter and the olive oil tasting
bar. Don't be shy about helping yourself to some samples of the various oils
& vinegars. You can take home a bottle of anything you like. The
"house" olive oil served with their fresh bread is better than you're
going to see on most tables in this city. A pinch of salt sprinkled ever so
lightly over the oil sends your taste buds over the top like dough boys on the Somme. You could simply nosh
on this till the pizza comes.
But man
cannot live on bread & olive oil alone. Well, you probably could but there
is so much other good stuff to try. Do get yourself a cheese plate. You can
order as many cheese as you like for $7 a piece, but the cheaper option is to
go with chef's selection - $15 for 3. We
had a great Valdeon, which is a Spanish cheese that is pungent and bluer than
Louis C. K.; a soft cow, goat & sheep's milk combo called Rocchetta that
was out of this world; and a Tomme Crayeuse that was firmer and tasted a bit
like smoked gouda.
Complimentary
Iberico ham for the FoodBaby? Thank you very much. Imported directly from
Spain, I started getting flashbacks to Madrid and bar hopping through late
night tapas joints. This is the real thing. Literally melting in your mouth
with the most luscious, nutty flavor imaginable. This is why I get out of bed
in the morning.
A
surprisingly good smoked trout appetizer with apples and fennel escabeche. I say surprisingly
because even the wifey liked it - and she's not usually a trout fan. The smoke
is not overwhelming, and the skin has a great crispiness to it. Slivers of
charred fennel, marinated in vinegar, and slices of granny smith add a tart
counterpoint to the delicious fish.
Ah, the
main event. The deep dish. A proper thick, baked crust that holds it's vertical
integrity. Thank god they cut it for you or you'd never be able to get a piece
out. The side angle shot lends some cred to the magnitude of this thing. I also
love the image of the cheese oozing out the side, seeking relief from the
weight of the toppings above. If you plan on having more than two slices, you
better wear your eating pants. Give your
pizza a few minutes to cool, and the slices should hold their form. It's knife and fork time from here on out.
You've
got a good selection of toppings to choose from - artichokes, peppers, bacon,
chorizo & sausage can all be had. We went with spinach and mushroom and
were not disappointed. The tomato "sauce" has an amazing depth of
flavor to it - understandable since it's described on the menu as a confit made from San Marzanos. It's thick and chunky, not smooth or runny in the least bit. What
seems like pounds of mozzarella and gruyere lurk at the bottom, on top of that
perfect crunchy yet somehow still soft and chewy crust. Like viewing rock
striations at a geological dig, each forkfull is a near perfect cross-section
of pizza mountain.
There is
of course an entire menu of other options at Garces Trading - none of which
will take an hour to make. And just about everything on the menu is worth
coming in for. The deep dish is pretty stellar though, and worth your
investment of time and $30. They serve wine now, but still let you BYO or
utilize the in-house wine store to pick up something last minute. The cheese
and meat counters are rivaled only by DiBruno's for their quality and
selection. Take your time and sample some parma ham, truffled olive oil, or
some funky French cheeses. You really
can't go wrong here.
Food Baby
Rating: Triplets!
Garces
Trading Co.
1111 Locust Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
215-574-1099