Doma

Korean and sushi on the same menu usually sounds alarm bells for me. When a restaurant tries to do both, more often than not they both end up half assed. You either get a Korean chef trying to do maki rolls or a Japanese sushi chef that doesn't know the first thing about kimchi. Needless to say, I was a bit skeptical about our prospects at Doma. The fact that it's in a bit of a wasteland area (18th & Callowhill) doesn't score it any bonus points either.

But oh to my surprise, this little kitchen that could is putting out extremely good renditions on Korean classics and some inventive sushi that rivals any in the city (Morimoto excluded).  We had a hightop table in the back with 8 other people, so got to try lots of great dishes.  Here's some of the highlights. 

dok bok ki

The dok bok ki - a crispy rice cake with roasted onions and spicy kochujang glaze. I ordered this because it looked like the weirdest/most Asian thing on the menu and it delivered.  If you can find a roundeye that even knows what kochujang is (a cousin of kimchi) it's likely they've spent some time near the Korean DMZ.  I absolutely loved the dense yet almost airy rice cake and that chili paste wrapping every bite in it's fiery embrace. The onions add a bit of bite and substance to a great starter. I've never had anything like it. 

edamame w/ spicy garlic sauce

Just to make things interesting, why not throw some spicy garlic sauce on the edamame? Can't hurt right? As you squeeze out each little soybean, your lips get a slather of the slightly numbing chili sauce and a pungent kick of garlic. Don't get these on a first date. You want to make sure you've got it in the bag already before you share these with someone.

korean tacos

The superfood of the food truck scene - Korean tacos! I couldn't help myself.  Had to try them . You get two soft tacos with spicy Asian slaw, and your choice of bulgogi, spicy pork or braised pork belly.  With my newfound knowledge that the Koreans know what they are doing with some grilled beef, we went with the bulgogi and were not disappointed. Soft, tender slivers of marinated beef mix with the cool crunch of carrots and cabbage. Add some sliced jalapenos on top of that spicy slaw, and your taste buds are about to be slapped around and have their hair pulled. Trust me, they want it.   

maki rolls....too many to count

Doma boasts an impressive sushi list that won't cost the kimono off your back. The standard maki rolls are in the $3-$6 range, and the special rolls top out at $16 with most around $12. You can get yourself a serious sushi-baby on here and not break the bank. Oh, they're also BYOB, so stop by the state store and grab a decent bottle of saki or shochu to wash down all the spicy goodness that is coming your way.

Somehow Doma manages to do two distinctly different cuisines exceedingly well. Delicate, nuanced Japanese and strong flavored, tongue scorching Korean.  There's a certain yin & yang element to it that leaves you satisfied and contemplative. It is undoubtedly worth a cab ride from just about anywhere in the city. If you are lucky enough to live in walking distance, you should probably be eating here once a week. 

Food Baby Rating:  Twins!

Doma

1822 Callowhill Street

Philadelphia, PA 19130

www.domarestaurant.com

Burger Challenge Round 10: Hickory Lane

Round 10 takes us to the new Hickory Lane in the suddenly bustling restaurant scene of the Fairmount/Art Museum neighborhood. Chef/owner Matt Zagorski is the mad scientist behind the burger that put Rouge on the map. One of the most awe inspiring creations between two buns - officially kicking off a ground beef renaissance in the city. He's broken out on his own now, bringing that incredible burger legacy with him, and an impressive accompanying menu to boot. 


Interestingly enough, we stopped in at Rouge on a Sunday afternoon a few weeks back for the Challenge, and they are clearly missing Chef's magic burger touch. A stale role fell to bits. A burger ordered medium rare was delivered well done. They might have started the burger trend in Philadelphia, but they've clearly lost their way. Kind of like watching the 2012 Phillies - probably best to give it up and re-tool for next season.

chilled melon soup with fresh mint

Hickory Lane is much more than a burger joint. In fact the burger is listed way down on the menu, almost like they don't want you to find it. There are plenty of other equally tasty items to choose from. On this particular 97° day, a chilled melon soup with fresh mint leaves was the perfect starter. 

steamed mussels 

A steaming plate of mussels was both beautifully presented and brightly flavored. Steamed in a bath of white wine, rosemary, fennel & garlic, the mussels are tender and luscious, with just a hint of the salty ocean waves. Slices of toasted baguette rest atop, waiting to be dunked into that exquisite broth. It's the next best thing to actually being on the coast of southern France. 

day boat sea scallops

Enormous scallops sit atop a bed of duck confit, red grapes (sounds odd, but strangely appealing), sliced apple, shallot confit and foi gras butter. This is more French than Pepe-Le-Pew in a beret drinking champagne. Incredibly soft scallops, scooped up with bits of the robustly smokey duck and richly flavored butter is a fork full of everything-that-is-bad-for-you-is-delicious. Très bien.   

bacon braised brussels sprouts

The only disappointment of the night were the brussels spouts. The menu description reads that they are braised in bacon. Our serving seem to have been blanched and then tossed with some chopped rashers. Brussels sprouts really need that salt and texture of crunchy bacon. The rashers tasted more like christmas ham, and the sprouts were just soggy. Bummer. 

hickory burger

The burger. Gorgeous. Simple. Unnecessarily large. Beautiful rounded challah roll on top like a bowler hat.  A 10oz MPZ beef grind*, aged cheddar melting lovingly down the side, garlic aioli, tomato, crisp bibb lettuce, a pickle spear & pommes frites. The burger glistens with fat like Prop Joe on a hot summer day, the juices kept inside by a crazy hot sear in a cast iron pan. The custom blended patty was one of the best we've had. Far superior to anything at Rouge. The roll held up to the heft of the burger, and the toppings were there only to enhance, not make up for any lack of flavor. That aged cheddar offering a slightly smokey and sharp contrast to the wonderfully sweet and savory beef. One of the top five burgers in the city. No debate. 

*Mark Phillip Zagurski - a blend of brisket, filet tips, and marbled deckle (a cut that lies on top of the beef ribs, looking like a cross between flank & skirt steak). 

bathroom vanity lights...creepy

Fat and happy after our burgers, all four of us with a proper food baby working. To a man (and woman) we all declared that we wanted to revisit Hickory Lane for a proper meal. This is not just a burger joint. It's a cozy neighborhood BYO. But it's more than that too. There's a feeling of sophistication in the room. Urbane service. An American/French bistro kind of place with a menu that is refined but built on classic pairings. This could quickly turn into a destination restaurant. Brunch with the parents. A graduation lunch. Anniversary dinner. Just leave that burger on the menu.

Food Baby Rating: Triplets! 

Hickory Lane

2025 Fairmount Ave

Philadelphia, PA 19130

215-769-2420

http://www.hickorylanebistro.com