Dinardo's

Ever been to Dinardo's? I didn't think so. Unless you're a baby-boomer you're more than likely blissfully unaware of it's 30+ year presence on Race street in old city. They were around before Vetri and Garces had even walked into a culinary school kitchen.  They were around before Staar bought his first property. And if you walk through the doors you will realize that not much has changed since they first opened.

I have recollections from my childhood of my father walking through the front door with a tray of crabs on a Friday night, dumping them on the newspaper lined kitchen table  and my parents going to town with bowls of melted butter at the ready. I remember being slightly dismayed watching the crabs being dismembered and then delighted when I would get a piece of the buttery meat. It was such a spectacle. When I saw a Groupon pop up advertising $75 worth of seafood for $35, I figured it was worth a gamble.

Now I have to say, the food wasn't terrible. But it wasn't exactly great either. It was more like a trip to Red Lobster than the fresh tastes of Sansom StreetOyster or Luke's Lobster or even Route 6. Just about everything comes broiled, stuffed or fried. That's pretty much the extent of their culinary repertoire.  Straight out of 1974, each plate is served with an enormous piece of lettuce as a "garnish". 

The crab appetizer was a highlight. Massive hunks of crab meat piled high with a lemon wedge and a decent cocktail sauce. They definitely don't skimp on portions here. This would be an entrée size serving at any place not in the suburbs. Garlicky crabs were also tasty, even if there were a bit on the small side. The pool of garlic butter they are floating in though is a recipe for disaster with anything resembling a decent shirt. They should serve this with a side of club soda and a Tide-to-Go stick. 

Stuffed mushrooms were filling. That's about all I can say. The bready/crabby stuffing was like a bad crab cake and the mushrooms had a strange rubbery consistency that is anything but appetizing. A squirt of lemon juice is not going to save them. The fried platter is just that - every reasonably healthy piece of seafood on the menu, breaded and fried into oblivion. I wish I could tell you there was a taste difference between the scallops, shrimp flounder & crab cake, but I'd be lying. The menu claims the french fries are "Award Winning". They were pretty much just normal fries. The side of broccoli was pretty tasty though, and it was nice to see something green other than the lettuce garnish. 

Sadly, Dinardo's days as a seafood destination have long such passed. The restaurant renaissance of the last 15 years has gone largely unnoticed here. The floors are carpeted. Adorning the walls are nautical themed decorations - think fishing tackle, nets, and fake seagulls. The best beer they have on tap is Yuengling.  The smell of frying oil permeates everything. The servers are nice enough, but none of them are under 50. I'm pretty sure they were here when my dad was buying crabs in '87.

This is not fine dining - and maybe I should not have expected that. It's more reminiscent of the overpriced seafood houses down the shore that you grew up eating at. If you fry it, they will come. I do have to give them some props for keeping the lights on and a steady crowd of customers coming through the door.  Like La Buca off Washington Square, this place is a dinosaur that has managed to stick to it's guns and still turn a profit.  Three decades on, that is something impressive on its own. Wonder if Route 6 will still be serving blue fish dip in 2043?

Food Baby Rating: Only Child

Dinardo's

312 Race Street

Philadelphia, PA 19106

215-925-5115

http://www.dinardos.com

Route 6

Either Craig Laban is an idiot, or Route 6 has seriously gotten their act together in the kitchen. His review in the Inqy a few weeks back was not flattering. His advice was to stick to appetizers, then maybe head around the corner to Alla Spina or Osteria for dinner. I tend to believe what the man writes though, so something of a small miracle must have taken place in the back of the house here. 

On a recent trip for dinner (all expenses paid by my company, thankfully), we had a pretty fabulous meal. As Laban points out, the appetizers are all extremely well prepared. A deft touch with crabby deviled eggs, perfectly shucked oysters still floating in their briney liquor, and a bluefish dip that is unlike anything I've ever had. But the entrees were equally good. My grilled porgie (when's the last time you even saw that on a menu) was nicely charred and falling off the bone. Equally good was the red snapper. The lobster roll, a bit pricey at $25, was delicious enough to inspire a drive to New England for a taste of the real thing. 

bluefish dip

The smoked bluefish dip, shredded bits of fish in a horseradish creme fraiche sauce, served with bagel chips on the side - just order extra chips at the start, you're going to need them. It's a strong flavored dip, so you don't need to pile it on. Incredibly smokey and savory, I've never tasted anything quite like it. Bluefish is a pretty unique specimen, locally sourced and not available in most of the rest of the world. It's oily, like mackerel, so it grills up well. It is certainly not light and flaky though. The bagel chips are an odd pairing, but the slight saltiness seems to go really well with the dip. One of my favorite dishes of the night. 

mmmm...oysters....

The raw bar is probably the biggest strength of Route 6, as it should be. Any fish house worth it's gills this close to the coast better have oysters shucked proper, meaty shrimp, and a good selection of clams. They bring it up a notch with a whole half lobster - a bargain at $15. 

White Birch Route 6 ESB

Nicely thought out list of beers on tap. Mostly from New England; Allagash, White Birch, Cisco Cottrell, Southern Tier, and of course some Yards to throw a little love at Philly. Bottle list is similar with a strong showing from the northeast - Long Trail, Harpoon, Saranac, Ithaca Brewing, etc. Can't go wrong with any of the above, and the bartender was more than helpful in sampling a few and leading me to the right brew. 

crab deviled eggs

A classic done right. Following my pension for all things Mad Men and 60's inspired, deviled eggs have quickly become one of my favorite bar foods. These follow the classic recipe with dijon and mayo, whipped yolks and a sprinkling of paprika.  Fold in some chunks of crab though, and you're on a different level. These would make Don Draper proud. 

lobster roll

The fabulous lobster roll. Huge hunks of lobster meat, dressed up with just enough mayo and stuffed into a buttered split top roll. I don't know why cutting the roll this way makes the thing taste better, but it just does. It's science. Don't ignore the fries, they are hand cut, perfectly cooked (crispy on the outside, soft and tasty on the inside) and served in a little bucket. There's not enough foods being served in buckets these days. 

buttermilk fried oysters

The fried oysters, served with an even smaller bucket (I'm liking this theme) containing a lemon wedge and the smallest bottle of Tobasco you've ever seen. Adorable. Super crunchy, golden crust surrounding the delicate oysters within, atop a shell full of tartar sauce and balanced on a bed of sea salt to keep them from rocking around in the pan. These were excellent nuggets of fried perfection. I could eat a dozen. 

softshell sliders

Probably my favorite dish, the softshell sliders were fantastic. Light and flaky battered crabs, on a fresh baked slider roll with lettuce, tomato and more of that house made tartar sauce. They are crunchy and savory, salty and a little sweet, richly flavored and yet not heavy at all. It is the perfect time of year for soft shells, and Route 6 hit it out of the park with their version. 

grilled, whole porgy

The picture doesn't do it justice, but the whole grilled porgie special was a beauty. Porgie, also known as sparidea, are bottom dwellers with plenty of light and tender meat.  Route 6 grills it whole, with a nice char and just a lemon wedge as garnish. You won't need much else though. This was a delicate fish, tons of flavor, and after all the appetizers I was almost uncomfortably full after polishing this off. 

coconut custard pie

Even after coming to term with a full on seafood baby, there's always room for some coconut custard pie. I was so excited to see this on the menu. Takes me back to my roots and the ubiquitous South Jersey diner, where they would make their 8" tall version that hit the spot after a late night movie and a case of munchies. A sweet graham cracker crust and a dense, luscious coconut filling, topped with fresh whipped cream hits all the right notes. A smear of chocolate ganache on the plate and some toasted coconut sprinkled on top makes it sing. 

A meal at Route 6 is going to be about sharing. A menu chocked full of appetizer size portions that are suited for getting a taste of everything. It's not a cheap destination, by any means, but it's on par with other Starr locations. Dinner for 4, with drinks, came out to around $350 with tax & tip. It's a large space, and sitting in the outer ring can feel a bit Disney-esque with all the nautical themed chachkies on the walls. The interior section though is airy and light, thanks to the large sky lights, and feels like you're down the shore. Thanks to the solid menu, it tastes like it, too. 

Food Baby Rating: Twins!

Route 6

600 N. Broad Street

Philadelphia, PA 19130

215-391-4600

http://route6restaurant.com

Monday-Thursday: 5-10pm

Friday-Saturday: 5-11pm

Sunday brunch: 10:30-3pm; dinner 4:30-9:30