Jamaican Jerk Hut

The smell of jerk chicken is intoxicating. Like Toucan Sam, you can literally follow your nose up South Street to the source of the entrancing aroma. The Jamaican Jerk Hut has quietly been serving some of the very best Caribbean food in the city for years now. Several of us in the Sunday Supper Club have been to Jamaica, and we all agreed that one bite of that chicken brought us right back. I could feel the sand in my toes and the sun on my face at that beachside chicken hut in Negril, even as the fierce thunderstorms raged outside and turned the outdoor garden at the Jerk Hut into a small lake. 

patties

A selection of patties - chicken, beef, veggie - essentially a baked empanada, but more similar to an English meat pie. Soft and flaky crust with a rich and complexly tasty filling. Definitely a mix of curry flavors, but hard to nail down the exact spice mix they used. The beef were spicier than the others, but nothing tongue numbing. They saved that for the entrees. 

tropical fruit salsa

The tropical fruit salsa, a sweet and only slightly spicy blend of mango, pineapple, cliantro and scotch bonnet peppers. I only wish I had thought to have this on the table with the spicier entrees. The sweetness would have helped to tame the fire. The chips that they served alongside were kind of a letdown. Nothing more than a bag of tostitos from Superfresh. 

mmmmm.....chicken....ahhhhhhhh

The main event. We ordered a few whole jerk chickens for the table. There was nothing left by the end, maybe some extra sauce, but only because we ran out of cornbread to soak it up with. Incredibly moist, and about 20 layers of flavor in each bite. You can taste the smoke, the peppers, the allspice, the day long marinade, the hours slow roasting on the grill. You can taste Jamaica. The meat simply falls off the bone. Incredible. 

cornbread

Unbelievably dense and delicious homemade corn bread. It manages to be both crumbly and rich at the same time. Quite a good trick and probably the best I've ever had. For reals. It arrived at just the right time to help cool down the slowing creeping heat from the jerk shrimp skewers. Those things were near on nuclear. 

jerk snapper

The whole roasted snapper, smothered in more jerk sauce.  It comes head on and stuffed with callaloo, so be prepared for that. They are not going to fillet or debone it for you. You need to get up in there and do some work yourself. Surprisingly tender hunks of fish flaked right off the bones. That spicy but addictive jerk taste seeping it's way into every morsel.  

To be sure, the Jerk Hut is not fine dining. You may have to ask for silverware a few times. Water will come in a pitcher, with plastic cups. The interior looks like it's been under construction for years (which it has) and exposed wires pop out of the wall here and there. God only knows how they get L&I to sign off the place - I'm sure a plate of chicken doesn't hurt the cause. 

The staff is pleasant and nice though and willing to accommodate most requests. If it's a nice night out you can sit in the expansive side yard, being entranced by the flashing palm tree and listening to the sounds of your stomach rumble while the kitchen fan wafts the jerk scent in your face. It's BYO, but wine is not going to do it. You'll want beer, and plenty of it. Something Caribbean if you can find it, a Red Stripe preferably. Go with a group, for a bigger sampling of the menu. Or just keep coming back for your fix. 

Food Baby Rating: Triplets!!

Jamaican Jerk Hut

1436 South Street

Philadelphia, PA 19146

215-545-8644

http://jajerkhut.com

Route 6

Either Craig Laban is an idiot, or Route 6 has seriously gotten their act together in the kitchen. His review in the Inqy a few weeks back was not flattering. His advice was to stick to appetizers, then maybe head around the corner to Alla Spina or Osteria for dinner. I tend to believe what the man writes though, so something of a small miracle must have taken place in the back of the house here. 

On a recent trip for dinner (all expenses paid by my company, thankfully), we had a pretty fabulous meal. As Laban points out, the appetizers are all extremely well prepared. A deft touch with crabby deviled eggs, perfectly shucked oysters still floating in their briney liquor, and a bluefish dip that is unlike anything I've ever had. But the entrees were equally good. My grilled porgie (when's the last time you even saw that on a menu) was nicely charred and falling off the bone. Equally good was the red snapper. The lobster roll, a bit pricey at $25, was delicious enough to inspire a drive to New England for a taste of the real thing. 

bluefish dip

The smoked bluefish dip, shredded bits of fish in a horseradish creme fraiche sauce, served with bagel chips on the side - just order extra chips at the start, you're going to need them. It's a strong flavored dip, so you don't need to pile it on. Incredibly smokey and savory, I've never tasted anything quite like it. Bluefish is a pretty unique specimen, locally sourced and not available in most of the rest of the world. It's oily, like mackerel, so it grills up well. It is certainly not light and flaky though. The bagel chips are an odd pairing, but the slight saltiness seems to go really well with the dip. One of my favorite dishes of the night. 

mmmm...oysters....

The raw bar is probably the biggest strength of Route 6, as it should be. Any fish house worth it's gills this close to the coast better have oysters shucked proper, meaty shrimp, and a good selection of clams. They bring it up a notch with a whole half lobster - a bargain at $15. 

White Birch Route 6 ESB

Nicely thought out list of beers on tap. Mostly from New England; Allagash, White Birch, Cisco Cottrell, Southern Tier, and of course some Yards to throw a little love at Philly. Bottle list is similar with a strong showing from the northeast - Long Trail, Harpoon, Saranac, Ithaca Brewing, etc. Can't go wrong with any of the above, and the bartender was more than helpful in sampling a few and leading me to the right brew. 

crab deviled eggs

A classic done right. Following my pension for all things Mad Men and 60's inspired, deviled eggs have quickly become one of my favorite bar foods. These follow the classic recipe with dijon and mayo, whipped yolks and a sprinkling of paprika.  Fold in some chunks of crab though, and you're on a different level. These would make Don Draper proud. 

lobster roll

The fabulous lobster roll. Huge hunks of lobster meat, dressed up with just enough mayo and stuffed into a buttered split top roll. I don't know why cutting the roll this way makes the thing taste better, but it just does. It's science. Don't ignore the fries, they are hand cut, perfectly cooked (crispy on the outside, soft and tasty on the inside) and served in a little bucket. There's not enough foods being served in buckets these days. 

buttermilk fried oysters

The fried oysters, served with an even smaller bucket (I'm liking this theme) containing a lemon wedge and the smallest bottle of Tobasco you've ever seen. Adorable. Super crunchy, golden crust surrounding the delicate oysters within, atop a shell full of tartar sauce and balanced on a bed of sea salt to keep them from rocking around in the pan. These were excellent nuggets of fried perfection. I could eat a dozen. 

softshell sliders

Probably my favorite dish, the softshell sliders were fantastic. Light and flaky battered crabs, on a fresh baked slider roll with lettuce, tomato and more of that house made tartar sauce. They are crunchy and savory, salty and a little sweet, richly flavored and yet not heavy at all. It is the perfect time of year for soft shells, and Route 6 hit it out of the park with their version. 

grilled, whole porgy

The picture doesn't do it justice, but the whole grilled porgie special was a beauty. Porgie, also known as sparidea, are bottom dwellers with plenty of light and tender meat.  Route 6 grills it whole, with a nice char and just a lemon wedge as garnish. You won't need much else though. This was a delicate fish, tons of flavor, and after all the appetizers I was almost uncomfortably full after polishing this off. 

coconut custard pie

Even after coming to term with a full on seafood baby, there's always room for some coconut custard pie. I was so excited to see this on the menu. Takes me back to my roots and the ubiquitous South Jersey diner, where they would make their 8" tall version that hit the spot after a late night movie and a case of munchies. A sweet graham cracker crust and a dense, luscious coconut filling, topped with fresh whipped cream hits all the right notes. A smear of chocolate ganache on the plate and some toasted coconut sprinkled on top makes it sing. 

A meal at Route 6 is going to be about sharing. A menu chocked full of appetizer size portions that are suited for getting a taste of everything. It's not a cheap destination, by any means, but it's on par with other Starr locations. Dinner for 4, with drinks, came out to around $350 with tax & tip. It's a large space, and sitting in the outer ring can feel a bit Disney-esque with all the nautical themed chachkies on the walls. The interior section though is airy and light, thanks to the large sky lights, and feels like you're down the shore. Thanks to the solid menu, it tastes like it, too. 

Food Baby Rating: Twins!

Route 6

600 N. Broad Street

Philadelphia, PA 19130

215-391-4600

http://route6restaurant.com

Monday-Thursday: 5-10pm

Friday-Saturday: 5-11pm

Sunday brunch: 10:30-3pm; dinner 4:30-9:30

Circles

Bit of a hiatus the last couple weeks due to some personal matters that had to be attended too. Sadly, my lovely Grandmom Peggy passed away, leaving a gaping void in a lot of hearts. She was an incredibly sweet and generous woman, who loved to cook, eat, and was a fan of this little blog. I will miss her terribly. Thanks to her and my Grandpop, we were able to travel to Thailand for our honeymoon, using their timeshare for our week in Ao Nang. An experience of a lifetime that vastly expanded my culinary horizon, and instilling in me an even deeper love for travel. 


Every time we make Thai food at home or seek out the latest greatest takeout spot for green curry, I think back to our amazing trip there, and ultimately of the people that made it happen for us. Thank you, Grandmom Peggy, for everything you've done for us. Hope you're eating well, wherever you are. Love you. 


______________________________________________


Ok, onto the food and my new favorite Thai place. Circles has been open for over a year now, but buried deep in south Philly (15th & Tasker) it's not exactly getting a lot of foot traffic. After a Craig Laban review a few months back, the place has been receiving considerable buzz, and it's well earned. 


Don't let the team of round eye servers fool you. The kitchen staff are off the boat from Thailand, and they have brought the flavors of their country with them. When the servers ask if you want it "Thai hot", be wary. This is not the dumbed down version of spicy you get at a normal Asian restaurant that thinks you can't handle the real stuff. You will have steam shooting out of your ears by the end of the meal. But you can't stop yourself from practically inhaling the perfect rice noodles, and brightly flavored beef salad that's placed before you. 


The spring rolls were crisp and without a hint of grease. Filled with a nice mix of cabbage, carrot, bean sprouts and optional chicken, they were nearly as good as the ones we made during our class at BaiPai cooking school. A sweet plum sauce for dipping on the side and you've got a perfect appetizer. Some of the best I've had in Philly. 

chicken spring rolls w/ plum sauce

The essential beef salad, served "Thai hot" and tasting of the bright flavors of lime, cilantro, mint and scallions. This instantly brought me back to dinner on the beach in Ao Nang. Those utterly unique tastes each shine through on their own, but become an incredible symphony when conducted properly. Your taste buds will be singing, while your lips are tingling. 

thai beef salad

The star of the show and the measuring stick for any good Thai place is their Pad Kee Mow. This is the best version I've had in the US. Paper thin slices of pork, hunks of broccoli, julienned carrots, sliced peppers, mixed with super wide rice noodles, all soaking up an incredibly flavorful garlic-y sauce. Mix in a very healthy portion of spicy peppers and some fresh basil and it's like you're eating on the streets of Bangkok, just with better hygiene. Absolutely incredible. 

pad kee mow w/ sliced pork

By the end of the meal, with the chili sweats in full force, we needed a cool down. A tall glass of Thai iced tea (basically black tea with some spices, sugar & milk) helps more than the ketchup and mustard for Harry & Lloyd. This is one of those meals that you can't stop eating, even though your mouth is on fire, reminiscent of the best stuff at Han Dynasty. 

thai iced tea - you're going to need this

Lucky for us, they are opening a second location right on 2nd street in Northern Liberties. I've been working on my own Thai recipes at home, but with food this good down the street from us, it'll be hard not to pick up the phone for take out. The new location is scheduled to be open in late May or early June, according to the waitstaff at the South Philly locale. Can't come soon enough for me. 

Food Baby Rating:  Triplets!

Circles - Contemporary Asian Cuisine

1514 Tasker Street

Philadelphia, PA

267-455-0785

267-687-1778 (take-out or delivery)

http://circlesnewbold.com/

Nan Zhou

Noodles! Finally the legendary hand drawn noodles from Nan Zhou in Chinatown. I've heard so much about this place that it's become something of an obsession of mine. I've been scouring the google calendar for a chance to stop in for the last few weeks. A hung-over Saturday morning seemed an appropriate opportunity - what better cure for a headache and bloodshot eyes then a bowl of noodle soup and some dumplings? 

pork dumplings

Nan Zhou lives up to all the hype. The food was spectacular - some of the best Asian I've had in Philly. Impossibly tender dumplings, made fresh that day without frozen won-ton skins, filled with a lusciously sweet and savory pork mix were irresistible. 

sliced beef noodle soup

The sliced beef noodle soup was exactly what I needed to calm a rumbling belly and sooth a pounding head. They should sell this at CVS. Similar to really good Pho, the rich beef broth warms your inner Asian soul, with a mound of delicious shaved noodles that are nearly impossible to eat without splashing some soup around. Float some super thin beef slices and a healthy portion of cilantro on top and you've got a bowl of heaven for $5.75. 

cold sesame noodles

Thanks to Han Dynasty, my love of sesame noodles has reached Single White Female stalker proportions. "I just want to be with you. We were meant to be together!" But these things are definitely good enough to take the chance of being slapped with a restraining order. Nan Zhou's are as good as Han's, if not better. The cold dressing is similar, but the simple preparation style brings the amazingly flavorful and absurdly long noodles to their rightful place as the best in the city. I haven't tasted every noodle in Chinatown, but I'm confident that these will not be bested. These are the reason Marco Polo brought pasta back to Italy. 

I have no idea how you make a noodle this long. I think this plate might just be one big noodle. Whatever they are doing back in that kitchen, it's something special. Our entire lunch cost us $26, with tax & tip. And there were leftovers, lots of them. And they got better after a few days in the fridge. I can't believe it took me this long to get here. Nan Zhou will be on the regular rotation from now on.  

Food Baby Rating: Twins! 

Nan Zhou Hand Drawn Noodle House

1022 Race Street

Philadelphia, PA 19107

(215) 923-1550

Popolino

Incredibly good meal last night at the new Popolino from Peter McAndrews of Modo Mio/Paesano's/Monsu fame. How an Irish guy makes Italian food this good I'll never know. The space was formerly Lafayette Bistro. They've replaced the ugly chairs and painted the walls, but not much else. The food, however, could not be more strikingly different. Gone are bland takes on boring "mediterranean" dishes. In are flavorful plates of strong tasting ingredients done in a Roman style, executed to perfection. One of the best meals I've had this year. 

complimentary bruschetta - fresh ricotta & roasted tomato

The menu is set up in a similar fashion to Modo Mio with a menu turista for $40 where you'll get an appetizer, pasta, main and a dessert. This is definitely the best way to go to get a large sampling of the menu. When everyone at your table has four dishes, you get to taste all kinds of good things. 

the Tavola Calda 

A fairly unique feature of Popolino is the enormous table occupying about half the dining room floor, covered in all sorts of gorgeous looking bits of antipasti. You can have this as your appetizer, but sadly, it's not a serve yourself situation. Our waiter brought back a good sampling though.  Beets, broccolini, roasted eggplant, sun dried tomatoes, chickpeas, orzo salad and some lovely dark beans seasoned with cinnamon. An exotic mix of flavors and an excellent starting point. 

selections from the Tavola Calda

There's a whole pig's leg sitting on the aforementioned table just waiting to give up it's tender prosciutto. Sliced by hand by the servers, I got goose bumps thinking back to our trip in Spain and the jamon that seems to be a form of currency there. This prosciutto is close to being useful as bartering chips. 

mozzarella in carozza

Pretty sure I've seen this on the menu at Modo Mio, but I'm definitely not complaining. The mozzarella stuffed Italian bread, egg dipped, pan fried, and drizzled with anchovy caper butter is one of the best appetizers in the city. It's melting cheese, salty, buttery, rich and indulgent. But just the right size portion so you can actually eat the rest of your meal. Stellar. 

lingua

The rosemary grilled calves’ tongue on Roman gnocchi, orange horseradish and beet gremolata is one of the chef's odes to offal that litter the menu and offer something interesting to adventurous eaters. This delicately cooked tongue tastes like the best roast beef you ever had, but better. The Roman style gnocchi was fantastic. Basically one huge gnocchi, it's baked to a near golden crust on the outside, with the middle still tender with near melting cheese. Wow. 

rigatoni alla gamberi

The pastas, as expected, are near perfection. Not quite the deft touch that you would see at a Marc Vetri restaurant, but a more rustic, simple version that seems meant to be shared. The rigatoni with shrimp, smoked paprika, almonds & garlic was my favorite (and also my pick). The little slivers of shrimp, perfectly tender, and the whole thing dripping of the paprika tinged oil. It's like Spain and Italy made a baby. A very delicious baby. 

bucatini all’amatriciana

Bucatini, my favorite kind of pasta. With the little hole in the middle, it just soaks up sauce so amazingly. This sauce is a red one, with guanciale (similar to pancetta but made from the pig cheek), pecorino, & spicy tomato. Just enough heat to keep it interesting, and a lovely undertone from the pork. Mmmm. 

rigatoni squazzetto

Squazzetto is another offal dish - dubbed as an "ancient butcher’s sauce" of liver, kidney & heart, & spicy tomato. It's not dainty. It's very rich and impressively meaty. I loved the tiny sprinkling of pecorino cheese on top. Almost a tease. 

grilled mackerel, with sun dried tomatoes

One of the fish specials, along with a whole bronzino (why is that on every menu in the city?) was a terrific piece of grilled mackerel. A strong tasting fish that holds up well to the flame and pungent ingredients like the sun dried tomatoes and pesto on top. Light and tender, it's the perfect thing for a warm summer night.  

coda

On the opposite side of light and tender is the butcher’s style oxtail, braised with celery, white wine, tomato, pine nuts, and cocoa.This should be shared with the entire table, since your're going to need help finishing after all the pasta, appetizers and house baked bread. Super tender, falling off the bone, meaty and rich. It is the kind of dish to resuscitate a famished Deadliest Catch fisherman. Or give a normal human being a proper food baby. 

mascarpone cheesecake

The desserts were good, but we hardly had room. Mascarpone cheesecake was my favorite, the chocolate hazlenut tart with fresh cream got the call from the wifey. Probably the most eye catching was a panna cotta with a neon green basil sauce. One bite was good. Two bites was one too many. That one might need some rethinking. 

chocolate hazlenut tart

Having yet another Italian restaurant from McAndrews is a burden we will happily bear in Northern Liberties. Don't forget the free shots of limoncello or sambuca after the dessert - a tradition that I'm happy to see carried over from his other restaurants. Modo Mio will always be our favorite, but I'm foreseeing quite a few nights at Popolino too. Decisions, decisions.  

Food Baby rating: Triplets! 

Popolino

501 Fairmount Avenue

Philadelphia, PA 19123

T: 215 928-0106

http://modomiorestaurant.com/popolino_live/index.html

Cash Only
BYOB

Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday,
Saturday & Sunday
Lunch - 11.00am - 2.30pm
Dinner - 5.00pm - 10.00pm

RyBread

What a perfect little neighborhood sandwich shop. Everyone should live around the corner from a place like this. It's almost worth moving to the Art Museum area and dealing with the parking. Ok, maybe it's not THAT good. But you get the point.





RyBread, on the 2300 block or Fairmount Ave, puts out some pretty solid creations between two slices of bread. Based on a cross-country trip by the owner Ryan (get it? Rybread?) and his girlfriend across the U.S., the sandwich names are stops along their journey. Santa Monica, Denver, Napa, Sante Fe, Tuscon & Alexandria are a sampling of the menu. Some evoke the spirit of their namesakes - the "Hollywood" consists of hummus, cucumber, red onion and shredded carrot, or the "Buffalo" panini with buffalo style chicken and gorgonzola cheese. Mostly though, they are just fun memories attached to a sandwich - not sure what roast beef, cheddar & horseradish mayo have to do with San Antonio, still tasty though.  


No frilly cappuccino or lattes here. They have coffee. With cream and sugar if you're a fancy pants. And it's very good. They also have iced tea, Sally. I think my favorite thing about this place is their chips. No, they're not handmade in-house. They are in a bag, from Route 11 in Virginia, kettle cooked, and come in awesome flavors like Dill Pickle, Chesapeake Crab and Mama Zuma's revenge. Good luck with the Mama Zuma's - they're flavored with habanero & bar-b-q and are stupid hot, and will leave your lips tingling. 


Seating can be a bit of a problem in the winter months. With only space for 8 or 10 people inside, it can get very tight. There are tables out front on the sidewalk for people watching with your lunch & coffee, and a little area out the back that doesn't offer much in the way of ambiance, but it is peaceful. 

Savannah - turkey breast, brie, whole cranberry sauce, mayo on multi-grain bread 

Rybread also has the advantage of being right next door to the BeeHive salon, where the wifey gets her hair cut. This must provide a steady stream of husbands looking to kill time with coffee and the Saturday paper. It's become my go-to spot during hair appointments.  

I have yet to make my way through the entire sandwich menu, but I'm working on it. Of the ones I can speak to, the Savannah was the best. Roasted turkey breast, hand sliced and layered with a sizable hunk of brie and smothered with cranberry sauce on multi-grain bread. The brie & turkey go so well together. Bring in the cranberry and all of a sudden it's like thanksgiving dinner in France. Très bien. 

Lake Tahoe panini - tuna fish, cheddar, on multi-grain bread, + tomato & bacon 

The Lake Tahoe panini, was ok, but definitely not my favorite. Tuna fish with cheddar and some optional tomato & bacon. It was substantial to say the least - probably weighed about a deuce, deuce and a half. There just wasn't much flavor to be had. It left me wanting something more, but I was too full to try. 

San Fran panini - prosciutto, mozzarella, roasted roma tomatoes, pesto on sourdough

Much better was the San Fran. Another panini, this one on sourdough (nice little nod to the bay area) with melty mozzarella over prosciutto, roasted tomatoes and a schmear of pesto. This thing sings California and hits all the notes. There's nothing especially inventive on the menu, and that's more than ok in my book. Rybread is not pushing the culinary frontier, but the simple elements and quality ingredients deliver the goods. 

Food Baby Rating: Twins! 

RyBread Cafe

2319 Fairmount Ave

Philadelphia, PA

215.769.0603

http://www.rybreadcafe.com

Chicken Fricassee

A most simple recipe from my Mutti (mom) that is all about comfort. This is a dish that instantly brings me back to being 9 years old, coming in on a winter day after playing outside for hours and the house being filled warmth and lovely, stomach growl inducing smells. 


The original incarnation comes from a French method of stewing poultry and then thickening with butter or cream. It eventually made it's way to Louisiana where the cajun version starts with a dark roux, then adds peppers, onions, celery & garlic. This version bears some faint resemblances, but has been completely adapted for what was readily available in exotic south jersey. Chicken. Onions. Egg noodles. Mushrooms. Chicken broth. Peas. Sounds simple, but what comes out of the pot at the end is chicken fricassee for the soul. 


My mother rarely writes down her recipes, so it's only through making them yourself that you can learn her secrets. She's crafty like that. The only real seasoning in this is salt & pepper - so it's important to keep seasoning after each ingredient is added. You need to continually taste to make sure the balance is right. I took her basic recipe and added a few tweaks - wine to deglase the pot, dried porcini mushrooms, etc. One taste of the finished product reassured me that I hadn't strayed too far from center though. Hopefully she'd be proud of the result.  Thanks mutti!! 


Cook time approx 1hr - Serves 6


3 tablespoons oil 
5 or 6 chicken pieces, skin on and bone-in (season with salt & pepper)
1 large onion, sliced
3/4 cup white wine 
1 pkg fresh crimini mushrooms, sliced
1 pkg dried porcinis
3-4 cloves garlic, chopped fine
3-4 cups chicken stock
1/2 a bag of extra wide egg noodles 
1-1/2 cups frozen peas
Salt & Pepper

Steep the dried porcinis in 1 cup nearly boiling water until reconstituted. Remove the mushrooms and strain the liquid through a cheese cloth. Reserve the liquid for later. 

In a large, deep pot heat the oil over medium high till glistening. Add chicken pieces and brown 6-8 minutes on each side. It's important not to turn the pieces early. You'll know when they're done when they pull away from the pan easily. Lower heat, remove the chicken from the pot and set aside. 

Turn the heat back up and add the onion and wine. Deglase the pan, scraping up all the good bits from the bottom. Saute the onions over medium heat till translucent, then add porcinis, criminis and the garlic. Continue to saute until the criminis have given up their moisture and started to soften. Add the reserved porcini liquid and simmer down slightly. Season with salt & pepper. 

Next add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Add the noodles and return the chicken to the pot. Cover and simmer till the noodles are cooked thru. Add frozen peas a few minutes before serving - they'll cook quickly and you want them to stay bright green. Taste for seasoning and adjust, if necessary. 

Serve in a shallow bowl with a piece of chicken, some noodles and plenty of the veggies. Mmmm...comfort. 

-T.Kaso